Back in 2014, I met Lara Heintz when we both worked at a startup called Ultravisual. She happened to live 4 blocks away from me, too. Naturally, she’d come over for dinner. She brought her fancy camera during a Filipino feast I put together. I was not expecting such vivid and illustrative edits of the dinner. Lara made a few GIFs of the action, too!
Photography
Photo by Hanna Elise Furey
Ernest Hemingway's Burger, My Way
I had been eyeing Ernest Hemingway's burger recipe in The Paris Review for a long time. It had so many moving parts, it was was a concerted effort to make India relish, Mei Yen and Beau Monde at home. If it helps, Mei Yen is basically salt, sugar and MSG. If you don’t prefer to use MSG, substitute a half teaspoon of miso paste. India relish and Beau Monde are available in ready to buy jars at specialty stores. I also learned that Beau Monde and Old Bay have a similar structure (except for paprika).
Photo by Hanna Elise Furey
I absolutely loved that this burger was jeweled with capers. I was worried about the chunky India Relish but because it was pre-cooked, it wasn’t disruptive in the silky bite.
Photo by Hanna Elise Furey
Photos by Hanna Elise Furey, GIF by me
I dressed this complex burger with whey ketchup, red onion, butter lettuce, jack cheese and fresh meyer lemon mayo all piled on a squishy potato bun. You can grab the recipe for the mayo in my cookbook.
Get the recipe for Ernest Hemingway's burger from The Paris Review.
Photo by Kelly Sweda, http://www.kellyswedaphotography.com/
Beacon, NY Mezze-scape Photographed by Kelly Sweda
Photo by Kelly Sweda
SFK and Jen asked me to cater their wedding. As much as I clamor to say yes to every opportunity to make food for my friends, I had a few logistical obstacles in the way. Instead, we decided to collaborate on an appetizer spread for 50 people while another local caterer handled the main event.
We covered a patio table with butcher paper and I set out to style an epic Mediterranean tablescape that would be easy serve as well as clean up when we were done. Paired with plates from the dollar store and vintage pic-a-nic baskets, we had waves of snacks sweeping across the surface. Bonus: everything was vegan except for the cheese board.
Our menu:
- Lemon hummus
- Sherry vinegar marinated garlic scapes & mushrooms
- Pickled carrots with Peppadew
- Orange pecan dukkah
- Labneh
- Olives
- Crudités, fresh from the McCarren Farmer's Market
- Cheese board
I wrote "All the Feels (and foods)" for Brooklyn Magazine's Home & Design issue, on stands now. It's about navigating the complex web of emotions that go with wedding catering.
If you'd like to explore working with me on your next party, I'm booking for 2018.
Modern Mezze Menu: Lamb Chops Smothered in Pistachio Tapanade
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Adapted from Smitten Kitchen who adapted from Anne Burrell | Shot by Riley Ziesig
I always thought "lamb pops" were cute but a hassle for such little meat. I remember stumbling upon the recipe for these lamb chops with pistachio tapanade. I thought, "Wow, that must have been a huge lamb!" No, that wasn't the case. It was a simple butchering trick that gives your lamb chops a little more dino-DNA.
The trick is to eliminate two bones from an 8 rib rack and voila! Huge honkin' lamb chunks that rival your Thanksgiving drumstick.
The lamb is then salted to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before searing on high for two minutes. The recipe called for olive oil, but I like to brush butter on after a sear...because why not? That way, you don't let the milk fat burn during the high heat period.
Each chop gets a generous schmear of pistachio tapenade. It is so bright green on account of the Castelvetrano olives I picked up from Fairway. They are plump and firm if you get them with pits (don't eat the pits!). If you are on a low-salt diet or are new to olives, don't use so much of this tapenade. Try some on bread before you put it on the lamb.
The chops are finished in a 425F degree over for 4 to 5 minutes depending how done you like your meat.
I couldn't wait for Riley to stop taking photos and kept asking, "Can I eat it yet?"
Try it! Tag @Randwiches on Instagram if you do.
Modern Mezze Menu: Flakey Grilled Bread
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Adapted from Bon Appètit | Shot by Riley Ziesig
I'll be honest with you. The worst part about this recipe is waiting four hours for the dough to proof. Other than that, it's smooth sailing and completely rewarding.
It's fun to explore how flatbreads get so flakey. Here, we've rolled them out flat, rolled them into a cigar and then coiled the cigar like a cinnamon roll.
After they've proofed for the four hours, you roll them out flat again and cook them on a hot hot hot grill pan. When they come off, you swipe them with some butter, a crumble of Maldon and dill (my suggestion!). Perfect with labneh, hummus or a greek yogurt with grated garlic.
If you've ever been to Glasserie in Greenpoint, Brooklyn; this is the closest approximation to their side of grilled bread!
Did you try it? Tag @Randwiches in an Instagram photo, I'd love to see it!
Modern Mezze Menu: Smashing Pumpkins (literally)
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Shot by Riley Ziesig
I was shopping at the Greene Grape one afternoon and their display of Fall pumpkins were gorgeous. I've only known pumpkin at the extremes, as a thing you put on your porch or magically appearing in a pie. The in-between part of actually cooking pumpkin eluded me, what, with canned pumpkin available where I grew up? Never really had the opportunity to get my hands on one outside of Halloween!
The most genius (and most simple) idea of cooking this pumpkin came from the Greene Grape signage. A small note next to the pumpkins said, "Smash it on the ground and roast it!"
Yes, you can totally do that. And I'm going to make this joke.
Take any baking pumpkin and wash it. You don't want to get any dirt on the outside to get on the inside. Put it in a paper bag, roll up the excess end and wrap that in a plastic shopping bag. Tie it closed. Ascend to the top of the stairs of your house or if you're in an apartment like me, the top rung of a step-ladder. Laugh a little at the situation, it's part of the recipe.
Make sure the floor is clear. Warn all roommates, housemates, toddlers, and pets that you will be lobbing a pumpkin with some might and force at the ground below. Confirm that you will be throwing the pumpkin stem side up, I don't want you all complaining to me about scuffing your wood floor after this. Don't just drop the pumpkin, throw it. I had to do this twice because I am a small human with little strength.
Open up the bag and check that you actually broke the pumpkin into manageable pieces as big as your hand. It will be impossible (and scary) if they broke into exactly the same size -- pics if that happens! -- but make sure the collective pieces will fit in a pan in your oven.
I love how the pumpkin looks broken up like this and not sliced in unnatural uniform pieces. The divots are ideal for holding dips for your fancy crudités platter!
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Scoop out the seeds and save them for roasting if you wish. Use a spoon to remove the pulp or use your hands if you don't mind the barbarism. Place the pumpkin in an oven-safe roasting pan in and drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper. Do not let any pieces overlap, single layer please! Roast for 45 minutes or until the pumpkin is fork tender.
While you wait, prepare a sauce, pesto or dip. I like this pistachio tapenade from Smitten Kitchen.
Once the pumpkin is roasted, let it cool so it's easier to handle and you don't mess up the cute cup shapes. Spoon in your favorite dip and enjoy as a vegetarian main or impressive shared side dish!
Did you smash a pumpkin? I wanna see. Tweet me @Randwiches or tag me on Instagram.
Modern Mezze Menu: Crushed Cucumber Lime Pickle
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Adapted from Bon Appètit | Shot by Riley Ziesig
I thought this dish was too beautiful to pass up. I have a coconut allergy, so I substituted the milk with swipes of labneh. I also fried up my own garlic chips for some crunch on top.
To make garlic chips, cut 5 to 6 garlic cloves into thin slices; the long way. Fill a small frying pan with enough vegetable oil to cover the bottom. Place the garlic in the oil and bring it up to a boil. Once you see the edges of the garlic frying with tiny bubbles, bring it down to a simmer for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and let the pan sit off heat for 20 minutes. If they are not chip-like, you cut them too thick and you should simmer again, careful not to burn them. They should be a golden straw color and stiff. Drain on a paper towel.
For the pickles, it is a funny concept to toss fresh cucumbers in another kind of pickle. Jars of lime "mixed pickle" can be found in Indian grocery stores. Luckily SFK left some at my house. Basically, you cut up a large hot house cucumber, squish it with your hands a bit and toss it in the chopped spicy pickle. I bet it jostled the plant cell walls, releasing juice and allowing the pickle to permeate quickly.
When you plate the cucumbers with the labneh, herbs and crunchy garlic; it is both spicy, cooling and juicy.
A similar dish can be found at Han Dynasty in the East Village. Instead of lime pickle, they use a sticky, garlic-y sauce with fresh cucumbers. It is very addicting.
Did you try it? Tag @Randwiches in an Instagram photo, I'd love to see it!
Modern Mezze Menu: Crudités with Candied Lemon Labneh
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A modified Bon Appètit recipe, original here. | Photos by Riley Ziesig.
Boring snack platters, be gone! Don't just throw a bunch of baby carrots and ranch dressing out at your next party. Dazzle everyone with a board of labneh and vegetables you wouldn't normally see on a crudités platter.
The idea came from a Bon Appètit recipe for labneh, which is Greek yogurt, strained into a cheese. Instead of preserved lemon, I used a few slices of candied lemon. Labneh isn't so widespread in grocery stores yet, but you are in luck, it is very easy to make.
All you need is a mesh strainer, a bowl, yogurt and cheese cloth.
Place the strainer in the bowl, it will catch the whey that comes out of the yogurt. Line the strainer completely with cheese cloth, make sure there is extra flowing over the sides. Plop yogurt over the cheese cloth, be careful not to fill past the top of the strainer. Wrap the cheese cloth over the yogurt. Leave the whole contraption in the fridge for two days. If your strainer touches the bottom of your bowl, you'll need to pour out the whey into a jar every couple of hours. Whey is great for constituting beans, by the way!
When it is time to arrange your board, go for hearty vegetables that can carry a thick dip like labneh. You also want to strategically place everything so that the dip doesn't flow off the board.
I love french radishes because they are narrow and have great edible greens. Fennel is fun because the lemon from the dip mellows out the licorice flavor. It doesn't have to be all vegetables, too. Crusty bread is fun to pull apart and scoop.
I want to see if you try this! Tag @Randwiches on Instagram if you do.